The Real Mess: Actors Raise Their Voices
In March 2019, Black actors took to Twitter to share their experiences of hairstyling inequality in Hollywood using the hashtag #ActingWhileBlack. The discussion was sparked by a hairstyling incident involving a Black runway model and quickly gained traction, with many actors sharing similar stories of negligence and inattention from on-set hairstylists and makeup artists. This blog post will delve into the issues raised by these actors and explore the broader implications for the industry.
Unequal Treatment, Unequal Standards
Black actors have consistently faced challenges when it comes to hairstyling and makeup services in Hollywood. The issue is twofold: a lack of stylists trained in working with natural hair textures and deep and dark skin tones, and the expectation that Black actors should adapt to the industry's predominantly white standards. This has resulted in actors either having to style their own hair or resort to costly and time-intensive protective hairstyles before shootings. Additionally, speaking up about improperly styled hair or makeup often leads to fears of being labeled as "difficult" or "ungrateful."
Actors like Yahya Abdul-Mateen II, Gabby Sidibe, and Gabrielle Union have shared their experiences of dealing with stylists who don't know how to work with their hair texture. Union, for instance, opened up about being styled by someone who didn't understand her hair, highlighting the need for stylists who are well-versed in Black hair care. This issue extends beyond the entertainment industry, as model Olivia Anakwe shared a similar experience during Paris Fashion Week, where no one on the styling team knew how to do cornrows.
The root of the problem lies in the lack of diversity among hairstylists and makeup artists in Hollywood. Doniella Davy, a makeup artist who has worked with many Black actors, points out the difficulty of joining the Make-Up Artists and Hair Stylists Guild, which requires artists and stylists to work on low-paying, non-union projects for years and collect extensive paperwork to prove their experience. Additionally, the admittance fee of $6,000 can be a significant financial burden.
This lack of diversity in the industry has led to a situation where Black actors often have to bring their own beauty products and accessories to avoid looking disheveled or discolored on camera. It also raises questions about the industry's commitment to true inclusivity and representation.
The Impact of Inequality
The consequences of hairstyling inequality in Hollywood go beyond the inconvenience and frustration experienced by Black actors. It contributes to a larger issue of marginalization and demoralization of Black individuals within the industry. By not providing equal treatment and opportunities, Hollywood perpetuates a standard of beauty that centers whiteness as the default.
Furthermore, the lack of diversity among hairstylists and makeup artists has real-world implications for Black actors' careers and well-being. Improper hair styling can lead to severe hair damage, as well as physical discomfort and stress. Additionally, the financial burden of having to purchase their own products and services or resort to protective hairstyles can be significant.
The impact of these issues is not limited to the actors themselves. As pointed out by Lindsay Lowe in their article for TODAY Lifestyle, the recent Twitter conversation about #ActingWhileBlack has "struck a chord with many," with tweets from actors like Yvette Nicole Brown, Sidibe, and others receiving thousands of likes and comments. This indicates a broader public awareness and interest in addressing these issues.
Additionally, the inequality in hairstyling and makeup services reflects a deeper problem within the industry. As Alexandra McGroarty, a seasoned HR consultant, notes, the entertainment industry often mirrors societal norms and trends. The lack of diversity and inclusion in Hollywood influences public perceptions and can contribute to the marginalization of underrepresented groups in other spheres.
Steps Towards Change
Despite the persistent issues, there are signs of progress and a desire for change within the industry. The recent SAG-AFTRA agreement includes an "Equity & Inclusion" section that addresses hair and makeup concerns. It states that producers should reimburse performers for the cost of obtaining hair and makeup services if qualified personnel are not provided. This agreement is a step towards ensuring that Black actors have a say in who is hired for hair and makeup departments and that their needs are met.
Additionally, there are calls for more diversity in hair and makeup departments, with top stylist Camille Friend emphasizing the need for better education and training for all hairstylists and makeup artists. Friend also suggests that producers should look beyond their comfort zones when hiring, ensuring they bring on hairstylists and makeup artists who are well-trained to work with diverse cast members.
The recent success of Black-led films and the recognition of Black talent at award shows, such as the Oscars, also sends a strong message to the industry. As Warner Media's Chief Inclusion Officer, Christy Haubegger, stated, "Diversity is not the moral thing to do. Diversity is going to be how we win, especially in a global marketplace."
While there is still much work to be done, the conversations started by #ActingWhileBlack and the efforts of individuals and organizations within the industry are pushing Hollywood towards a more inclusive and equitable future.
The Impact and the Way Forward
The issues raised by Black actors regarding hairstyling equity in Hollywood have significant implications and highlight the need for change. The experiences shared by actors reveal a deeper problem within the industry—one that contributes to the marginalization and demoralization of Black individuals. It is important to address these concerns to create a more inclusive and equitable environment, ensuring that all actors feel valued and respected.
The recent SAG-AFTRA agreement, which includes provisions for hair and makeup services, is a positive step towards addressing these issues. The agreement acknowledges the importance of having qualified hairstylists and makeup artists who are proficient in working with diverse skin tones and hair textures. Additionally, the agreement ensures reimbursement for actors who have to obtain these services themselves. This is a significant development, as it not only provides financial relief but also recognizes the additional burden placed on Black actors due to the industry's shortcomings.
However, there is still much work to be done. The lack of diversity among hairstylists and makeup artists persists, and the recent agreement is just the beginning of addressing these long-standing issues. It is crucial to continue the conversation, raise awareness, and push for further change. Industry-wide efforts should focus on increasing diversity in hair and makeup departments, providing education and training on working with diverse hair textures and skin tones, and ensuring equal pay and opportunities for hairstylists and makeup artists.
Additional Insights and Resources
For those interested in learning more about the topic, the following links provide valuable insights and resources:
- Allure's article on the SAG-AFTRA agreement and its impact on hairstyling and makeup equity
- BuzzFeed's coverage of the #ActingWhileBlack hashtag and the experiences of Black actors
- Euronews' piece on Black actors calling for stylists who understand natural hair
- Variety's report on Hollywood hairstylists fighting for pay equity with their makeup counterparts